12. BOX WITH COVER-Slab Construction

Materials — gray or terra cotta pottery clay, about the size of half a loaf of bread; small amount of clay slip

Tools — piece of cloth ¼ yard square; 3 sticks, ¼" x 1" x 8"; wood tools; wire tools; knife; brush; plaster bat about 6" x 8"

A clay box is made in the same way as the ash tray (see Project XI). First design the size and proportions of the box. It can be made for cigarettes, candy, or jewelry. The size will be determined in part by the use for which it is intended, and in part by the imagination of the designer. Because clay shrinks about 10%, or ⅛" to the inch, this should be taken into consid­eration at the outset. Draw a pattern of the box with bottom, four sides, and cover in actual size. In drawing, make two sides shorter than the actual length to allow for the thickness of the other two sides. For example, if you use a ¼" slab, two of the sides will be ½ shorter than the others and the sides should be ¼" less than the height of the box to allow for the thickness of the base. The cover should be slightly (⅛"-¼") larger all the way around, than the base.

Wedge the clay thoroughly (see Introduction, page 12). Make a large slab about ¼" thick and a little larger than the area required by the pattern (see Project X). If you should miscalcu­late and not have enough, you can make an­other slab. Cut the paper pattern into pieces. lay them on the slab, trace around them with a pencil or pointed tool, and cut the pieces away with a knife. Wait until the parts are firm enough to handle without bending or denting and pro­ceed to join them. Start with the bottom; lay it on the plaster bat. Take a long side and score the bottom edge and paint it with slip. Score the edge of the bottom where the side joins It, paint it with slip and fix the side in place. Work the two edges together with a modeling tool, then roll a small soft coil, about ⅛" in diameter, and place it in the groove on the inside where the side and bottom meet. Also weld the outside seam with finger or tool. Put in a short side in the same way as you did the long side, but be sure to score and paint the edges with slip where the two sides meet. Add a soft coil on the inside and weld the outside. Continue with the third and fourth sides in the same way. If cracks appear, open with a sharp tool, paint them with slip, and fill them with fresh clay (Figure 1).

Place the cover on the box and check it to see that it fits evenly. If it is too large, trim off the excess with a knife. A ridge must now be put inside the cover so that it will not slip off the box. Put a pellet (a little ball) of clay at each of the four corners of the under side of the cover, but in from the edge to allow for the thickness of the sides. Measure the distance in from the edge before placing them. Put the cover back on the box. If there is play in the fit of the cover, move the pellets until they hold the cover firm. Score a path about ¼" wide between the pel­lets, paint it with slip, and weld a small coil, ¼" thick, all around. Smooth to a square ridge with wood and wire tools (Figure 2). The box is now completed. It may be desirable to en­hance the piece by use of one of the decorative processes such as application of clay slips, or by carving or modeling, or by a handle for the cover, designed with care to repeat the shape of the box and in proportion with it. Fire once, then glaze (see Introduction, page 14, and Projects XIV and XV).

Figure 1—Weld sides and base together, rounding off the edges so that the box will not appear too mechanical.

Figure 2—Place a small piece of clay near each corner so that the cover will not slip off of the box. Score a path between the pieces of clay and paint it with slip. Weld a coil along the path and square off side and top.

Figure 3-Slab pottery, by Barbara Willis.

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