14. SPOUTS, COVERS, AND HANDLES

Materials and tools—same as used in construction of the object

Useful objects such as pitchers, tea pots, sugar bowls, cookie jars can be made by the coil or slab method, but they present the added prob­lem of making and fitting spouts, covers, and handles.

SPOUTS. Two types of spouts, the triangular (Figure 2), and the tubular tapering spout (Fig­ure 3), serve all purposes. First make the object by coil or slab method (see Projects III, IV, XI, XII, and XIII), then mark the place where the spout is to go and cut a round or triangular hole, depending on the spout desired (Figure 1). Make a small coil, about ⅛" in diameter, or larger if the pot is large, and build the spout one coil at a time. If the spout is triangular, join each piece to the pot and weld it in place (Fig­ure 2). Also weld the coils together inside and out. Be certain to score the pot and paint it with slip as you weld the coils to it. If the spout is tubular, and tapered and curved, make circular coils and weld the first one to the pot at the outer edge of the hole. Score the joint and paint it with slip. Add a second coil to the first, and so on, making each coil smaller to form the taper, and adjusting it to the curve desired (Fig­ure 3). Weld each coil to the preceding one as you work. The coils are not welded in the illus­tration in order to show the construction.

Figure 1 —Cut hole for spout.

Figures 2 & 3—Model spout with coils in the shape you prefer.

COVERS. Covers may be made as part of the object and cut away or made separately and fitted. The former way is probably better as it insures a more perfect fit. Build your object with coils until you close the top. Then mark off the cover and cut on the line with a knife (Figure 4). Add a coil and form it into a collar so that the cover will not slip off the pot. Also join a projection to the bottom of the collar to keep the cover from dropping off when the pot is tilted. A handle for the cover can be made in a number of ways—a flat knob, a ball, hemisphere, or a loop (Figure 5).

Figure 4—The cover may be made as part of the piece and cut away later.

Figure 5—The cover needs a collar and a stop to hold it in place.

Salt glaze jug, by George Fetzer.

Salt glaze pitcher, by George Fetzer.

Figure 6—Begin making the handle by drawing out the wedge.

Figure 7—Draw out to desired thickness.

HANDLES. Handles are made in the following manner to insure a sturdy, even texture. Wedge a piece of clay and form it into a triangular wedge about 8" long. The wedge should be about 4" wide and 2" thick at the top, and 2" square at the base. Work at a sink with the tap running. Keep a firm grip on the top of the wedge with the left hand; wet the right hand continu­ously. With your right hand start drawing it out with a pulling and squeezing motion. Slide your hand along the wedge several times until it elongates. Do not attempt to pull it out all at once (Figure 6). Keep wetting and pulling it un­til you have the desired thickness near the base of the wedge (Figure 7). Cut the end off and lay it on its side on a tile (Figure 8), shaping it to the desired form. Allow it to become firm enough to handle without losing its shape.

Fit it against the pot, reshaping or cutting it if necessary. A handle should be in proportion to the size of the pot and should repeat the general contour or shape of the object for which it is de­signed. Score the places where the handle makes contact with the pot and paint them with slip (Figure 9). Do the same with the contact spots on the handle. Weld the handle in place and clean off the excess slip and clay (Figure 10).

Figure 8—Cut off piece and shape handle.

Figure 9—Score and paint joints.

Figure 10—Weld handle in position.

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